d’Vine Magazine, Fall 2002

(PLACERVILLE, CA) At the ascent of the Sierra Nevada mountain range in California, El Dorado family wineries are winning over wine lovers and competition judges with an extraordinary diversity of global grape varietals from just one AVA (American Viticultural Area). How can this be? Normally, an AVA is recognized by the U.S. Government for its common growing conditions, not its diversity.

In El Dorado, the vintner’s strength is the land’s diverse terroir: hundreds of tiny microclimates make it possible to make world-class wines in conditions similar to each winegrape’s European homeland.

“One of the things that makes El Dorado unique is that its hillsides provide a broad range of temperatures, exposures and soils, which provide ideal locations for grapes of Bordeaux, Rhone, Italian, Spanish, even Burgundian origin. The list of varieties grown is well over forty, and includes virtually all the grapes from which fine wines can be made,” explains John Smith of Oakstone Winery, who credits the high elevation for producing wines of deep flavor and color.

Paul Bush, second generation El Dorado grape grower and winemaker at Madroña Vineyards, calls this the “El Dorado English Muffin Geographic Phenomenon.” “The topography of El Dorado’s mountain terrain gives us hundreds of nooks and crannies, so the region as a whole produces a dazzling variety of wines. We choose carefully when matching the varietal to the spot where we are planting. As winemakers, we’re going for more site-specific character and flavor,” says Bush.

Key to understanding this mountainous region’s diversity is the grape grower’s efforts to find which grapes, clones, and rootstocks perform best in each of the microclimates on their property. A streak of experimentation runs through the appellation’s wine growers, along with an appreciation for the rugged terrain that ranges from 1,500 to 3,600 feet in elevation.

“Our vineyards are incredibly diverse,” says Susan Boeger, who runs Boeger Winery with her winemaker husband Greg and their children. “We have very steep terrain at the home ranch that has to be cultivated with D-2 Caterpillars (tractors) because of the slope. We have several hills and slopes that range from north facing terraced Chardonnay, to southern exposure, and everything in between. This allows Greg, who is very experimental – maybe he has a touch of ADD,” she adds with a wink “to try this and that variety. He may just start with a few rows to see what something will be like, and the next thing you know, we’ve committed a few acres to it.”

Recognition for the region’s ability to deliver diversity has traveled beyond the wine trail to urban wine retailers and restaurants. As wine manager of Mill Valley Market in the Bay Area, Doug Canopy is ever vigilant for wines that will wow the discriminating palates of his clientele.

“My customers are definitely exploring different varietals and regions. You know, you’re going to get bigger rewards from the good, lesser known places, and Placerville (El Dorado) fits that. Because we have a rapport with our customers, they look to us for good wine. They don’t necessarily care where it is from. El Dorado is my favorite region in the Sierra foothills. It offers a ton,” states Canopy. “I sell the heck out of some El Dorado wines.”

While serious “wine geeks” have always pursued the road less traveled, the increased interest in new grapes and lesser-known regions has spread among casual grocery store shoppers. Wine sellers have noticed the influence of increased travel experience, access to the Internet, and the popularity of television cooking shows and The Food Network.

Chip Hammock, Wine Buyer at The Wine House of West Los Angeles, CA notes
“Information is so much more available to the average consumer, through the web for example. Customers are more informed, and they’ll ask for different things. Also, people are well traveled these days. They’ve been there and they want a wine from there. El Dorado Syrahs and Zinfandels do quite well for us. There’s a lot of value there, even though the general public isn’t aware of the region.”

But will the public really go for Sangiovese, Refosco, Malbec or Dry Riesling? “We don’t have to sell to every consumer. There’s a core constituency that appreciates what we’re doing, and it’s growing,” says Laurie Jones, owner of Firefall Vineyards and a former marketing executive for Procter and Gamble. “Diversity has become the norm for other culinary pleasures. Think of the transformation of supermarket shelves as the number of cheeses, breads, and the variety of coffees have become so popular. There’s room for a wider experience, and consumers are embracing it.”

Doug Canopy of the Mill Valley Market agrees. “I just tell my people to use a little imagination, a little initiative in trying new wines. Don’t go for the name-brand or the chain store mentality. You’ll be well rewarded,” he advises. “Travel the road less taken and you will often be very, very satisfied.”

To learn more about the less traveled road in El Dorado, visit the El Dorado Winery Association website at www.eldoradowines.org, or call for a map and travel information at 1-800-306-3956.